Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Cherry Clafoutis


A clafoutis is a French baked custard, traditionally made with unpitted cherries. The pits give the custard a faintly almond flavor. I recently made two versions with apricots, one very good, one only so-so. This time, I went with the traditional cherries, since we picked up some wonderful, juicy Bing cherries at the market, and I pretty much followed the Tartine recipe. I added the almond extract and Amaretto because I think almond works great with cherry, and also to compensate for the almond flavor that the cherry pits ostensibly would have contributed.

Ingredients
1 cup low fat milk
1 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 vanilla bean
pinch salt
1/2 tsp. almond extract
3 large eggs
1/3 cup + 1 Tbs. all purpose flour
4 cups pitted cherries (looks like the Oxo pitter is better)
3 Tbsp. Amaretto liquor (optional)
powdered (confectioners') sugar for topping

Instructions

Preheat oven to 375 deg. F. Butter a 10" or 11" ceramic quiche mold or pie dish.

Macerate the cherries by mixing them with the Amaretto in a bowl.

Cut the 1/2 vanilla bean in half lengthwise to expose the seeds. In a small saucepan, combine the milk, cream, sugar, vanilla bean, and salt. Place over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, to just under a boil. While the milk mixture is heating, break 1 egg into a heatproof mixing bowl, and add the flour, whisking until the mixture is combined. Add the remaining 2 eggs one at a time and whisk until smooth and free of lumps.

Remove the saucepan from the heat. Scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean pieces back into the milk mixture. Using a fine strainer, strain the milk mixture into a heatproof bowl or 4-cup measuring cup. Slowly pour the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture while whisking constantly. Mix in the almond extract. Pour the mixture into the prepared mold and add the fruit, making sure that the fruit is evenly distributed.

Bake until just set in the center and slightly puffed and browned around the outside, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on rack. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Apricot Sauce


Once again, Emily and I set out around July 4 to harvest apricots from abandoned fruit trees growing nearby. Remember, Silicon Valley used to be called "The Land of Hearts Delight." Each year, we pick a large supply and make pies, scones, and especially our famous apricot sauce. The fruit is intensely flavored since the trees are old, dry-farmed, and totally organic. Some of the fruit isn't in perfect condition, but it's ripe and super sweet as we pick at the height of ripeness (which lasts for about a week!). I don't recommend doubling this recipe; we just make multiple batches.

(loosely derived from The Encyclopedia of Homemade Preserves, by Myra Street)

5 cups halved and pitted fresh apricots (about 2 lbs.)
1 cup water
3 Tbsp. lemon juice (zest optional)
4 cups sugar

Crack about half of the apricot pits with a nut cracker and reserve the kernels. Put these in boiling water and blanch for 2-3 minutes. Wrap in a cheesecloth square and tie like a bag.

Place the halved apricots in a large, non-reactive (e.g. SS) stockpot with the water, lemon juice, optional zest, and kernels. Cover the pan and stew the fruit gently over low heat until tender. Remove the bag of kernels. Use an immersion blender to create a slightly chunky puree.

Add the sugar and stir over low heat until the sugar is completely dissolved. Bring to a boil and keep on a rolling boil for about 10 minutes until thickened and sauce reaches about 215 deg. F. Pour into 1/2 pint or pint jars, seal, preserve by placing in boiling water bath for 10 minutes, and then cool and label.

(makes about 4 pints)